Getting on Board

A Catholic bishop and a politician board a plane.  This is not a joke – it happened this morning and I was sitting in front of them and became an ear witness (some may call it eavesdropping…if only they saw me taking notes!) to their fascinating conversation.  I don’t know where they were coming from or where they were going to or why, but I heard something from them about the winds of change in Ghana.

So the bishop is sharing with the politician a little bit about how he came into his position.  He says he was educated quite by accident.  You have certain responsibilities based on your birth order in a traditional Ghanaian family and as the youngest son, he was required to care for his elderly grandfather.  He had two older brothers who received an education as was their privilege.  They were a fair bit older than the bishop.  One was getting ready to leave for Belgium on scholarship after finishing his secondary school education.  He was paying a final visit to the family in the village before he left.  The elder son was shocked to see his  youngest brother, at the age of 8, doing nothing but household chores and caring for his elderly grandfather.  He spoke directly to the men in the family, “although it wasn’t an acceptable practice at that time to speak as an equal,” and insisted they find someone else to care for the grandfather and to send the bishop to school.  Because his wishes were selfless, they decided to hear him out and gave the bishop his education.  The bishop considered it Providence that he should be given the opportunity to attend and worked diligently to achieve high marks.

Now, he shares with the politician, he finds himself in a position to be speaking up on behalf of the educated just as his brother did for him.  His priority while in office has been to set up JSS (junior secondary) boarding schools for girls.  He decided to educate girls because they are at the same disadvantage he was as a young boy.  Because of culture, they are not the priority to be educated.

In Ghana, it is acceptable to “sack” (expel/suspend) children from school when they have not paid fees.  But as for him, this is his weak spot, he says.  If someone cannot pay their fees, I cannot sack them, rather I ask them to do their best to pay the fees and continue to work hard.  By keeping the girls in school, they achieve such high marks, the proof is in the pudding so to speak.  In fact, 10 of the girls have ranked at the top of the national exams.  He laughs when he says how ashamed the young men must be. 

The politician agrees with the bishop, that people are finally realizing the potential of education.  It is the educated who must advocate for education.  But even so, people are not satisfied when they are left behind.  They see what makes the difference in the people and in the country.  If you work with, assist and organize those changes, you will channel it for the greatest benefit to the country.  If you do not, you will see a rebellion. 

There is no punch line.  Assist positive change.

This is now the Official Theme of my trip.  And perhaps a new motto for the business, as I see better my place in the midst of what's happening here and the response in Canada. 

The women I met with yesterday, work together outside under the shade of trees.  The strong, dry winds of the Harmattan blow hard this time of year.  Their lips and skin are cracking because of it.  They use bowls of water to keep the straw wet while they weave.  The wind blows one woman’s basket away when she wasn’t looking - she runs after it. The winds will only last a month or so. The women live in mud huts with no windows, near to the large tree where they meet.  These dwellings keep them cool when temperatures become unbearably high in the next couple of months.  They farm for their food and also care for the family, cooking meals and making clothes.  There is no such thing as leisure time.  In fact, when I asked how long it takes for one basket to be completed, they could not give a definitive answer, because they never make a basket without interruption.  They estimate 3-5 days.

When the woman were asked about their struggles, they didn’t complain, in fact they said they were very satisfied in most ways.  They only wished for consistent, sustainable employment.  If they had that, they could easily meet their needs.  They wondered if Canada could help them with that.  I hope you don’t mind.  I said that we could.

Sisters are doing it for themselves

Slept through not one, but three alarms this morning.  I’d been paranoid about not waking up since I was going on close to 36 hours without sleep by the time I climbed into bed last night.   I was to check into my flight to Bolgatanga at 5 a.m.  But at 5 a.m., my taxi was giving me my wake up call when he was phoning me wondering why I wouldn’t come to the gate, or answer my phone. 

I FA-REAKED out, jammed a bunch of stuff into my bag and ran out the door as I was brushing my teeth.  We sped to the airport, I jumped out of the cab, throwing way too much $ at him. I was 30 minutes past the cut-off time.  Then I found myself praising what I might previously (even yesterday?) have called “Ghanaian inefficiency.” The airline hardly noticed and I simply slid in behind the crowd as the passengers all walked out onto the tarmac to board the plane at dawn.  Fell right back asleep on the plane and woke up when we arrived in Bolgatanga, an hour later.

While the day started off in a panic, I have to say it has been one of the most - what’s the word, fulfilling? enlightening? moving? inspiring! – experiences I’ve had in a long time.  I visited one of the Women’s Co-operatives that make the baskets we bring in from Ghana.  I was given a hearty welcome, the chance to take pictures and videos of the process and observe them at their labour.  Then they sang and danced for me.  I’m upset because in all my panic this morning, I forgot my camera cord and you just HAVE to see this.  For now, take my word for it.

Dominic and Patience Abakuri make up the couple who supports the Women’s Co-operatives.  Dominic was previously working for the government in exports and won the “lottery” when he was chosen to go on an exchange to Germany for two years.  This was when he realized that the Bolga baskets may have a market outside of Ghana.  When he returned home, he and his wife decided to start the business.  They partner with five different Women’s Co-operatives in the region. That was 10 years ago.  Get this - Dominic told me they have several companies that they ship to in the US and one in Europe.  In all the years they've been doing it, no one has come to visit to see the women at work!  I find that very hard to believe, and yet happy that I came!  People are missing out!

I got to interview a few of the ladies from one Co-operative in the village of Yikene.  They told me that, although they have been weaving baskets since they were young (average age 10 when they start to learn), they have been working with Dominic and his wife exclusively for the past few years.  Previously, they would try to make money on their own, but there was too much competition at the basket market and they didn’t have the know-how to export, most of them never having received an education.  Whatever they did make, they had to use towards purchasing the supplies (grass, dye, leather, equipment, etc.).  Combining that with their other responsibilities – caring for children, farming the land for their food – they were living in poverty.

Patience, Dominic and their twins (age 5) Amy and Morris.

Dominic and Patience reversed the system for the women.  They pay the women first when they order the baskets, keeping a steady stock in store – so the women are guaranteed income.  They also supply all the equipment and “ingredients” to make the baskets, so the women never have to worry about paying for that out of their wages.  The women can also make special requests to Dominic and Patience for large expenses, such as school fees or household items, which they are given and can work off at an acceptable pace while still earning money for everyday living.

Dominic and Patience have shown me the importance of being a go between (as opposed to a middle man).  The women need them to set up contacts for sales, there are so many obstacles for them otherwise.  Dominic and Patience  provide consistent labour and security for the women.

The men aren’t around much*, Dominic says.  They might "control" the farm, but it’s the wives who do the work.  These particular women at Yikene actually approached Dominic and Patience.  They’d formed the co-operative on their own to help each other out initially and agreed to partner with Dominic and Patience.  Sistas are doing it for themselves.

I’m up again early tomorrow morning for a visit to the basket market.  It runs “every other two days” from 6 a.m. to 9 a.m.  Dominic wants to show it to me and then we’ll visit another one of the Co-operatives that they run.  

Let me leave you with this photo taken by my new friend, an employee of Dominic, by the name of Williams. I thought I could get in the picture with one of the women I was interviewing, Agyura.  This was Williams' first time using a camera ever.  He was very proud.

Dominic has lent me his USB modem – so cool to be accessing internet in rural Africa – and I probably won’t have internet till Sunday when I return to Accra.  I’ll catch up with you then!  Inspired tonight!

Why exactly?

Made it! Barely! Downside of travelling on your own (one of many): no one to take pictures of YOU. (How am I supposed to emote when I'm posing for myself?) I'm as tired as I look. 

This will be the first time I've returned to Ghana (a) on my own; and (b) not as part of our mission project that this blog has been ALL about.  Both of those things make this return a little more difficult than I'd anticipated. Being on my own means I'm getting a few more offers of marriage than I'd like.  Not being part of the mission makes me feel a bit like I've letting down the very people who helped me love Ghana and feel at home here.  I'll definitely be visiting them and the church, but I won't be working with them and that feels slightly yucky.

So I'm taking the time to remind myself why I decided to come on my own and for the business.

First of all, I need to remember who I work with. Almost every single day, I tell the story behind the beads, baskets and batik I import from Ghana.  With that kind of repetition, enthusiasm can fade (believe it or not).  Although the products I get in regularly have their own great way of reminding me - they're all so beautiful and so unique.  But visiting Ghana means I'm reminded in a very real way about the resourcefulness and beauty of the people and their efforts to make the products.  Not only that, but they do these this while facing obstacles you and I would never have to encounter, which makes them truly inspirational.

Then, I need to remember who I work with.  Speaking of repetition... I did mean to repeat myself there.  Working as an entrepreneur in a North American context means that the pace is very quick and the demands are stressful.  I start to get irritated that, for example, I can't get the pendants my suppliers promised because they ran out of firewood... or my products aren't arriving on time because the shipping agent had to travel by tro-tro for two days just to get them to the airport. Things start to seem like "excuses" when I'm on the Canadian side of the ocean.  When I'm here, however, I remember the daily struggles of the people I work with and it makes me more gracious.  

I'm also taking the time to get photos and video (please, Lord, help me work the cameras properly) of the basket-making process, visit the new additional bead factory that was built to accommodate the demand, look for new, enterprising artisans to partner with and bring a few new beauts home!  

How nice that just today an article came out in Christianweek.org about Big Village!  My own words come back to me about why exactly I'm here: http://www.christianweek.org/stories.php?id=1444.

Leaving for Bolgatanga tomorrow to visit the basket weavers.  That makes me happy!

Home again, home again

So nice to be home and, what a sweet surprise, you ordered snow for my first day back!

Now that I'm back where the internet loves me even if my schedule doesn't, I'll post my favourite pictures and then conclude the trip and this blog with my response to one of Dennis' questions to each of us on the team, "What changed as a result of coming to Ghana."  It's taken me a while to articulate, but I think I finally have the answer. 

First, the pictures.

This was Mama Fredericka's Thanksgiving Birthday Party.  I had never been to a birthday party in Ghana before.  I know many of my friends do not celebrate their birthdays.  So I was surprised at the extravagance of Mama's.  Everyone was dressed in lime green and/or white, to match the decorations.  There was food enough to feed the guests (everyone she knew) as well as those who were just hanging around on the street.  Mama was celebrating new life because she'd recovered from a stroke.  My favourite part of this evening was when Mama had a solo dance to an upbeat song played by a DJ.  Friends and family came up to honour and celebrate her by showering her with money (placing it on her head) while she danced.  I'm currently looking for an excuse to throw myself a Thanksgiving party this year - I certainly have a lot to be thankful for.

I was so honoured to be able to present gifts from our church back home to one of our members in Ghana.  Theresa (sitting in the middle) has been diagnosed with brain cancer, but has not been able to get treatment.  At first it was because of funds.  Barrie Free Methodist Church and her home church both raised money for her surgery... but now the issue is that there are so many others ahead of her who need treatment.  She has had her surgery date cancelled twice already.  As you can imagine, Theresa is quite worried about it.  She is keeping her head shaved as she waits, which can be a difficult thing for a proud, Ghanaian woman.   She was so touched by the prayers and generosity. 

This is one of my best friends in Ghana, Isabella, with her daughter, Maame, who refused to smile for the camera.  You might remember, if you've been following the blog, that Mallory and Sophia were flower girls in Kassim and Isabella's wedding.  Last time I was in Ghana, Isabella was VERY PREGNANT with Maame and gave birth the week after we left.  This time Isabella announced that she and Kassim are expecting again, this time TWINS. 

Also, over time, we have seen Kassim and Isabella go from considering their place in ministry to planting a church.  Their church has grown to 60 members in the past year and they are excited about what God has in store for tem.  It is obvious that God is blessing them in their home and church life.

This was the part where the Canadian Free Methodist Church officially took oversight of the Ghana Mission, at the request of the Ghana leaders.  Our joint goal is to make the Ghana Mission independent and self-sufficient.  To plan out our goals and structures of our partnership, we met under a thatch roof by the sea. 

Loved seeing my friends' smiles again.

 
I'm always impressed when I visit TK Beads, a family business that puts family first.  Kwesi gave Becky and me the whole tour with his son, Henry, in his arms.

 
It is so cool to see how God calls people to use the gifts he's given them.  John-Mark often says "the need is the call."  In our case, the partnership needs administrative assistance.  Dennis (middle) easily sees the ways that we can implement the appropriate structures and provide training and support where needed.  And the Ghana mission easily accepted his advice and are eager to work with him.  I'm excited to see how the other needs will be filled - who else has received the call?

Not sure if I loved or hated the tour of Elmina Slave Castle.  It was a holiday and, therefore, lots of crowds.  On the way in, we were completely surrounded - as in barely able to see the sky - by aggressive hawkers selling handicrafts when we tried to walk from our van to the castle.  I've never seen anything like it before.  But we all giggled with relief afterward - we'd made it through the gauntlet.  Ironic that we'd escaped into the slave castle.

Loved having my little sis here with me.  "Ntafo?  Ntafo? (Twins? Twins?)" they'd ask us. 

"No, just sisters." 

"You resemble yourselves!"

Here, Becky is sporting a cool (literally) outfit in an African print that she picked up at her the second-hand store near her home in Mississauga.  She thought she'd only really wear it on the trip.  She said that coming to Ghana has encouraged her to connect more with her neighbours.  She's keeping the dress.

 
My very favourite part about this partnership has always been connecting people, specifically our church back home with our church in Ghana.  I hardly have to do anything beyond introductions, though, because Jesus is at the centre of our relationships and we already know him. 

The right man for the job

It isn’t easy letting go of a project you love, even if you know it's the right thing to do.  When I announced at the meeting with the Board of the Ghana Mission that Rob Corey would be the new co-ordinator for the project, I said it with a lump in my throat and a tear in my eye. 

Dennis asked me if I've really stepped down, because I keep getting excited about the amazing things that are happening and the plans that are being made.  I use language like, "Hey, we can..." or "How about we..."  Every statement followed by exclamation marks.  And I am glad I feel this way, that I can leave it with nothing but enthusiasm for its future. 

But it's still time for me to go, because I could be in danger of claiming this as "my baby" instead of letting it be the church project it was meant to be. 

Plus, Rob is the very right person to lead this project now.  We are entering a stage where teams will be coming regularly and rapidly - two teams coming in March and July already.  Rob has passion for the project where perhaps mine has waned.  It was a little obvious today - at least to Becky - when we were meeting with the lawyer and some of my accumulated frustrations came out in my interactions.  Perhaps I sighed a time or two.  As for Rob, he took the frustrations as opportunities and left the meeting excited about possibilities instead of feeling impatient, like me. 

I made a bit of a faux pas by asking our lawyer, in front of our Board, to replace John-Mark's name with Rob's as the go-to person.  Pastor Charles just about had a fit. "Never Replace!  Just add!  Just add!"  He was sure to say that John-Mark and I will go down in the history books as "The First Missionaries to the Ghana Mission."   As honoured as I am, I am seeing that everyone who comes to Ghana gets their own title and their place in the history of kingdom building in Ghana.  Rob's title is "Business Man Rob" and is deemed trustworthy because he showed up just like he said he would.  That kind of commitment is not taken lightly considering there are so many who make promises that are never fulfilled.  It makes me smile when I think of all the titles people will be given when they come on a team and meet their sister church.

Also, the Ghana Board is so accepting of Rob’s leadership. I believe it’s in part because he such an enthusiastic learner.  He asks all kinds of questions that show his desire to be a part of what’s going on.  His "How would you..." and "What if..." questions demonstrate that he's continually equipping himself  for this position. 

On an aside, this question has to be on of my favourites he's come up with: “Tell me, do they have lighthouses in Ghana?”  We had just passed one in Jamestown a few minutes earlier.  Business Man Rob is know to have some ditzy moments.

I’m going to have to cut this short because the hour is late and we meet with the Mayor of Accra early tomorrow morning (7 a.m.) regarding rezoning land the mission hopes to own.  As boring as the content of that meeting sounds, expect me to name-drop when I get home.

In the meantime, here’s a picture of the guy who makes it OK for me to say goodbye... for now.

Rob chatting up local artisans at the Art Market